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Beaded backpack ornament

Send the kids off to school, then do a little learning of your own while mastering six peyote stitch techniques.
Backpackingtoschool

MATERIALS

red backpack 1¼ x 1 x 1½ in. (3.2 x 2.5 x 3.8 cm)

  • 8 g 11/0 cylinder beads, color A (DB0602, silver-lined red)
  • 5 g 11/0 cylinder beads, color B (DB0010, black)
  • 3 mm round bead or 8/0 seed bead, color B (black)
  • nylon beading thread, size B, or Fireline 4 lb. test
  • beading needles, #10

purple backpack

  • 11/0 cylinder beads
    • color A (DB0264, sparkling purple-lined aqua luster)
    • color B (DB0310, matte black)
  • 3 mm round pearl (Swarovski, purple)

 

 

EDITOR'S NOTES:

  • Tight, even tension helps the backpack keep its shape, but stitching too tight made adding the front pocket a little difficult for me. If this happens to you, push the front panel out with your finger as you work, rounding the beadwork, which will make it easier to get the needle between the beads.
  • When you add a new thread, it's important to have the new thread exit where you left off with the old one to keep your place in the pattern. To help remember where you stopped, add the new thread before ending the old thread. – Anna

DESIGNER'S NOTE:

  • To add a bit of sparkle, string crystals for the straps instead of stitching them with cylinders.

 

BackpackingtoschoolFigure1
Figure 1

Bottom surface
1. On a comfortable length of thread, attach a stop bead, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Pick up 15 color B 11/0 cylinder beads (FIGURE 1, a–b). These beads will shift to form the first two rows as the third row is added.

2. Work a peyote stitch using a B (b–c). Work six stitches using Bs, stopping short of the last stitch in the row (c–d). Remove the stop bead. Pick up a B, and sew through the first B picked up in step 1 from the tail end (d–e) to complete the third row.

3. Using Bs, begin working rounds of tubular peyote stitch off the edge beads of the first three rows:
Round 4: Work seven stitches (e–f). Pick up a B, and sew through the adjacent end B (f–g), creating a base bead for the corner stitches, which will be added in the subsequent rounds. Work seven stitches (g–h). Pick up a B, and sew through the adjacent end B, creating a base bead for the corner stitches. Step up through the first B added in this round (h–i). 
Round 5: Work six stitches (i–j). Work an increase stitch to begin the corner: Pick up two Bs, skip the next B in the previous round, and sew through the following B (j–k). Repeat (k–l). Repeat all the stitches in the first half of this round, then step up through the first B added in this round (l–m).
Round 6: Work five stitches (m–n). Pick up a B, and sew through the first B of the increase stitch (n–o). Pick up two Bs, and sew through the second B of the increase stitch (o–p). Pick up a B, and sew through the first B of the next increase stitch. Pick up two Bs, and sew through the second B of the increase stitch (p–q). Work seven stitches, an increase stitch, one stitch, and an increase stitch as in the first half of this round (q–r). Work a stitch, then step up (r–s).
Round 7: Work six stitches, then work an increase stitch (s–t). Work two stitches, then work an increase stitch (t–u). Work eight stitches, an increase stitch, two stitches, an increase stitch, and two stitches, then step up (u–v).
Round 8: Work six stitches, then work an increase stitch. Work three stitches, then work an increase stitch. Work nine stitches, an increase stitch, three stitches, an increase stitch, and three stitches, then step up (v–w).
Round 9: Work a round using one B per stitch, picking up only one B for each corner instead of an increase stitch (w–x). You should have 32 Bs along the outer edge of the bottom surface.

BackpackingtoschoolFigure2
Figure 2

Body
Begin building the body of the backpack by continuing in tubular peyote, maintaining 32 stitches per round:
Round 10: Work this round using Bs: Work five stitches (figure 2, a–b). Work a corner stitch: Pick up two Bs, skip the three Bs that make up the corner in the previous two rounds, and sew through the next B in the previous round (b–c). Work three stitches, a corner stitch using two Bs, nine stitches, a corner stitch, three stitches, a corner stitch, and four stitches, then step up (c–d). 

Round 11: Work this round using Bs: Work five stitches (d–e). Your thread will be exiting the first B of the corner stitch. Pick up a B, and sew through the second B of the corner stitch (e–f). Work four stitches, a corner stitch, 10 stitches, a corner stitch, four stitches, a corner stitch, and five stitches, then step up (f–g). 

Rounds 12–15: Work the next four rounds as in rounds 10 and 11, keeping in mind that the number of stitches at the beginning and end of the rounds changes because the starting point of each round shifts over one bead per round as you step up after completing each round.

Round 16: Work as in round 10 using color A 11/0 cylinder beads instead of Bs. 

Round 17: Work two stitches using As. Work one stitch using a B, which will sit between the beads in the corner stitch of the previous round. Work the remaining stitches as follows using one bead per stitch: four As, one B (corner), one A, one B (front panel), six As, one B (front panel), one A, one B (corner), four As, one B (corner), and eight As, then step up.

Rounds 18–43: Continue working in the established pattern using As and Bs as in rounds 16 and 17, ending and adding thread (Online Basics) as needed. After completing round 43, end the working thread and tail.

DESIGNER’S NOTE: To step up at the end of round 20: Pick up two Bs for the first stitch in the round, which is a corner stitch. After completing the round, step up through these two Bs.

BackpackingtoschoolFigure3
Figure 3

Top decrease
Add a comfortable length of thread to the body, exiting the top B of the right vertical stripe of Bs on the front panel of the backpack with your thread exiting to the left of the B. 
Round 44: Work a decrease stitch: Without picking up any beads, sew through the adjacent bead in the second-to-last round next to the bead your thread is exiting, and sew through the next bead in the last round (FIGURE 3, a–b). Work five stitches using As (b-–-c), then work a decrease as you did at the start of this round (c–d). Work the following stitches with As, picking up two As for each corner stitch: one stitch (d–e), a corner stitch (e–f), three stitches (f–g), a corner stitch, one stitch (g–h), a decrease stitch (h–i), five stitches (i–j), a decrease stitch (j–k), one stitch, a corner stitch, three stitches, a corner stitch, and one stitch (k–l). Sew through the beads in the next decrease stitch, and step up through the first A added in this round (l–m).

Round 45: Work four stitches using As (m–n). Add two beads over the space from the decrease stitch in the previous rounds: Pick up an A and a B, skip the three beads of the decrease stitch, and sew through the next bead in the previous round (n–o). Work one stitch with an A, exiting the first A in the corner stitch of the previous round (o–p), pick up a B, and sew through the second A in the corner stitch (p–q). Work four stitches with As, exiting the first A in the next corner stitch. Pick up a B, and sew through the second A in the corner stitch. Work the remaining stitches as follows: an A, two As over the decrease, four As, two As over the decrease, an A, a corner B, four As, a corner B, an A, and a B and an A over the decrease. Step up through the first A added in this round (q–r).

Round 46: Work four As, sewing through both beads of the decrease stitch in the previous round; an A; two corner As; three As; two corner As; an A, sewing through both beads of the decrease; five As, sewing through both beads of the decrease; an A; two corner As; three As; two corner As; an A; sewing through both beads of the decrease; and an A. Step up (r–s). 

Round 47: Picking up one bead per stitch, work the round using As for the front, sides, and back panels, and using Bs in each corner stitch and over the decrease stitches on the front panel, then step up (s–t).

Round 48: Work a round with As, picking up two As for each corner, then step up (t–u).

Round 49: Work two stitches with As and a decrease stitch by sewing through the next B and A. Work an A, a corner B, four As, a corner B, one A, a decrease stitch, four As, a decrease stitch, an A, a corner B, four As, a corner B, an A, a decrease stitch, and two As. Step up (u–v).

Round 50: Work an A, and pick up a B and an A over the decrease. Work two corner As, three As, two corner As, two As over the decrease, three As, two As over the decrease, two corner As, three As, two corner As, an A and a B over the decrease, and two As. Step up (v–w).

Round 51: Work an A, sewing through both beads of the decrease stitch in the previous round; an A; a corner B; four As; a corner B; an A, sewing through both beads of the decrease; four As, sewing through both beads of the decrease; an A; a corner B; four As; a corner B; an A, sewing through both beads of the decrease; and three As. Step up (w–x).

Round 52: Work a round using As, picking up two As for each corner and one A in each decrease stitch, and step up (x–y).

Round 53: Work an A, a corner B, four As, a corner B, six As, a corner B, four As, a corner B, an A, a B, two As, and a B. Step up (y–z).

For complete project instructions click here to download and print this PDF.

FIND MORE: peyote , seed beads

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