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Set it right

Stitch a bold bezel in right-angle weave to make a focal bead stand out
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Working herringbone stitch with bugles gives the neck band an interesting structure, while the weight of Harold Williams Cooney's art bead helps my necklace, Lady of the Water, to hang elegantly. The openings in the neck straps echo the ripples on the focal bead.

SUPPLIES

necklace 18 in. (46 cm)

  • 50 mm art-glass bead
  • 16–18 g 6 mm bugle beads
  • 7–8 g 10/0 seed beads or rounded triangle beads
  • 3–5 g 11/0 seed beads in each of 2 colors: A, B
  • 1–2 g 15/0 seed beads
  • 1 5⁄8 in. (4.1 cm) 18-gauge craft wire
  • Fireline 6 lb. test
  • beading needles, #12
  • wire cutters

INSTRUCTIONS

Setitrightfigure1
Figure 1
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Figure 2

Focal bead bezel

1. Thread a needle on each end of 5 yd. (4.6 m) of Fireline, and center a 10/0 seed bead or rounded triangle bead. 

 

2. With each needle, pick up a 10/0. With one needle, pick up a 10/0, and cross the other needle through it (FIGURE 1).


3. Continue working in crossweave technique as in step 2 until the beadwork fits around the circumference of the focal bead without pulling. Pick up a 10/0 with each needle, and cross the needles through the first 10/0 to form a ring (FIGURE 2, a–b and x–y). With each needle, tie a half-hitch knot to secure each thread. With one needle, sew through the next 10/0 (b–c), and with the other needle, sew through the 10/0 just added (y–z).

 
Setitrightfigure3
Figure 3
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Figure 4

4. With one needle, work a round of right-angle weave: Pick up three 10/0s, sew through the 10/0 your thread just exited and the three new 10/0s, and continue through the next edge 10/0 in the previous round (FIGURE 3, a–b). Continue in right-angle weave, picking up two 10/0s per stitch (b–c) until you reach the last stitch. For the last stitch, pick up a 10/0, and sew through the first 10/0 added in the first stitch, the edge 10/0 in the previous round, the 10/0 your thread just exited, and the 10/0 just added (FIGURE 4).

 
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Figure 5
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Figure 6

5. Pick up three color A 11/0 seed beads, and sew through the 10/0 your thread just exited (FIGURE 5, a–b).

 

6. Pick up a color B 11/0 seed bead, and sew through the next 10/0 in the previous round (b–c). Pick up two As, and sew through the first A in the previous stitch and the 10/0 your thread just exited (c–d). Repeat until you reach the last stitch. 

7. Pick up a B, and sew through the next 10/0 and the adjacent A in the first stitch in this round (FIGURE 6, a–b). Pick up an A, and sew through the first A in the previous stitch and the 10/0 your thread just exited. Pick up a B, and sew through the next 10/0 and two As (b–c). 

 
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Figure 7

8. Pick up a B, and sew through the next A. Repeat to complete the round (FIGURE 7), and end the thread.

 
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Figure 8
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Figure 9

9. Insert the focal bead with the front facing the 11/0s. Using the remaining thread, repeat steps 5–7. 

10. Pick up three Bs, and sew through the A your thread just exited and the first two Bs (FIGURE 8, a–b). 

11. Pick up a 15/0 seed bead and two Bs, and sew through the next A, the last B in the previous stitch, and the first B just added (b–c). Repeat until you reach the last stitch. 

12. Pick up a 15/0 and a B, and sew through the first B in the first stitch, the A in the previous round, and the last B in the previous stitch (FIGURE 9, a–b). Sew through the B just added, pick up a 15/0, and sew through the middle B in the next stitch (b–c). End the thread.

 

 

 

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