1. On 1 yd. (.9 m) of Fireline, pick up 42 11/0 cylinder beads, and tie them into a ring with a square knot, leaving a 12-in. (30 cm) tail. Work in tubular peyote stitch to make a bezel, adjusting your tension for the corners. Work a total of three rounds of cylinder beads, insert the stone (photo a), and work two rounds of 13/0 Charlottes on each side of it. Do not end the working thread or tail.
2. Work one round of tubular peyote stitch with 15/0 Charlottes on each side, and end the thread.
Ruffled bands
As you work the ruffled bands, end and add thread as needed.
1. On a comfortable length of Fireline, pick up 17 cylinders, and tie them into a ring with a square knot, leaving a 12-in. (30 cm) tail. Sew through the first three beads again (figure 1, a–b).
2. Pick up nine cylinders, and sew through the next cylinder in the ring toward the previous cylinder (b–c). Sew through the first six cylinders added in this step (c–d).
3. Pick up six cylinders, and sew through the next cylinder in the base ring toward the previous cylinder in the base (d–e). Sew through the last three cylinders added in the previous step and the first three cylinders added in this step (e–f).
4. Pick up nine cylinders, and sew through the next cylinder in the base ring toward the previous cylinder (f–g). Sew through the last three cylinders added in the previous step and the first six cylinders added in this step (g–h). The cylinders added in steps 2–4 form one fan cluster.
5. Repeat step 3 twice and step 4 once to make a second fan cluster.
6. Repeat step 3 twice and step 4 once to make a third fan cluster.
7. Repeat step 3 twice, but the second time, do not sew through the first three cylinders.