[3] Make the metal-clay pieces. Roll out the metal clay. Start with approximately 14g of metal clay that shrinks in the 8–15 percent range. Working on a heavy plastic sheet that is lightly coated with olive oil, roll the lump of metal clay into a circle that is 4 playing cards thick.
Place the silicone mold face up on the work surface. Silicone molds do not have to be oiled before using them with metal clay. Place the metal-clay circle on top of the mold and gently press down, making sure the metal clay gets into all the textured areas of the mold. Trim the excess metal clay from around the mold and the raised-square area in the center.
Gently flex the mold, releasing the metal-clay piece. Place the metal clay on the oiled plastic. Allow the clay to dry as is, or speed up the process by placing it on a hotplate or in a toaster oven set to low.
Repeat using metal clay that shrinks 25–30 percent to create two disks to use for earrings.
Finish and fire the clay. When the metal clay is leather hard, use a flat jeweler’s file to sand the outer edge of the element and the inside edges of the square center. Place the metal clay on a ceramic-fiber kiln shelf and fire it according to the clay manufacturer’s directions. You may have to do separate firings for clays that require different firing times and temperatures.
When the metal clay is cool, use a brass brush to burnish away the white appearance of the sintered silver, but if you want to do keum-boo on some of the areas, do it before burnishing. For more information on this process, see Celie Fago’s book, Keum-Boo on Silver.
For a shinier finish, place the burnished pieces in a tumbler with stainless-steel shot and burnishing compound for 10–30 minutes. Rinse and dry the pieces after tumbling.
Add a liver of sulfur patina if desired. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s directions for the product you are using.
To read the rest of the project instructions, click here for the free project PDF.